A decade ago, locals would refer to Worthing disparagingly, suggesting its main achievement was having the second-oldest population of any UK town (behind Blackpool). But, with an influx of younger residents (many having been priced out of Brighton), experimental food, drinks and art scenes, and space on the shingle beach on even the warmest days, this relaxed West Sussex town – named the best British seaside town to move to this year – is firmly out of retirement.
During summer, Worthing Festival (June), Pride (July) and Artists Open Houses (July) draw visitors. But the town never heaves under the weight of weekenders in the way you might expect in nearby Brighton. And, off-season it is possible to have the beach to yourself. For more, see timeforworthing.uk
Worthing, with its Art Deco architecture along the seafront, is divided by a 20s pier looking out to Rampion off-shore wind farm, eight miles from land. The beach is a 15-minute walk south of the railway station (served by Southern) or five minutes by bus (Line Five; £1.70; dayrider ticket £5).
The 700 bus to Brighton takes an hour, but National Cycle Route Two connects the communities and the journey, past Lancing and Shoreham beach huts, is a delight. Rental bikes are available (timeforworthing.uk/bike-hire-worthing/; £1.80 for half an hour). Cissbury Ring and the South Downs are a 15-minute journey north by taxi (approx £12) or slightly longer by bus (Stagecoach South Service One; £2 single; dayrider ticket £5).
Where to stay
Low-carbon, smart technology inn Sleep opened this month. It is based in a former 1910 wash house and has high-ceilinged double rooms and family rooms with loft beds. It is self-check-in and check-out. Breakfast is not included, but fresh coffee is available. Two rooms are fully wheelchair accessible. From £99 for a double or family room, sleepecohotel.co.uk
On the seafront, the Burlington Hotel, which opened in 1865, has undergone a £3m refurbishment, with an extension to follow. Previous guests include Charles Dickens and Charles Darwin. Some suites have a sea view; assistance dogs only. Doubles from £149 including breakfast, theburlington.net
Day One
Worthing Pier just after sunrise (Photo: Eunice Jane Bergin/Getty/Moment Open/Eunice Bergin)
Up with the sun
Start your day at Coast Café, on the seafront with a full English (£11.95 meat or veggie; £11.50 vegan; children’s breakfast £6.95). The café has a roof terrace and tables outside looking on to the beach; behind is a splash pad for children, mini golf and beach volleyball courts. It is open until 1am on Saturdays, with cocktails (try the flu killer, £9), DJs and, sometimes, jazz bands to enjoy, coastworthing.co.uk
Souvenir hunting
Next to Coast is East Beach Studios. Here, a collective of artists works and sells T-shirts, ceramics, homeware, jewellery and instruments; one artist sells paintings of her studio’s seaview. Open Thursday to Saturday, 11am-3pm, instagram.com/eastbeachstudios. Further into town, Emporium has an eclectic mix of homeware, with a cafe and cocktail bar, emporiumworthing.com
Don’t miss
Worthing Museum and Gallery has a toy and doll collection from the 18th century to the present day, and a costume collection of more than 30,000 garments, including Queen Victoria’s underwear. Check out the Patching Hoard, found locally in 1997 by detectorists, with gold coins and two gold rings from the crumbling 5th-century Roman Empire (free entry; open Wednesday and Friday-Sunday; wheelchair accessible), wtm.uk
Time for a sundowner
Head on up to Level One, the first floor of a multi-storey car park, transformed into a food and drinks terrace, to see the sun set over the pier. Yoga classes in summer. Open noon-9pm Friday and Saturday; noon-7pm Sunday, closed for the winter months from 5 November, level1worthing.co.uk
Or try The Brooksteed micropub. The converted hairdressing salon has a garden and is dog friendly. Opening times vary; check ahead, brooksteedalehouse.co.uk
Dinner reservation
One friend claims Crabshack is the reason she moved to Worthing. Sitting metres from the beach, with tamarisk trees outside, the metallic smell of the sea mixing with chilli crispy squid (£8) and fish stew (£23.50), a meal here feels like a holiday. Book ahead, if you can, as it is always busy. However, the owners – two brothers and their wives – seem to conjure space for drop-ins. Closed on Mondays, crabshackworthing.co.uk
A kite surfer take advantage of the strong sea breeze off Worthing beach (Photo: Paul Mansfield photography/Moment RF/Getty)
Hit the beach
During windy days on Worthing’s pebbly beach, kitesurfers perform stunts, while people play on paddleboards when the sea calms. If you’d like to join in, hire a paddleboard from K66 Boardriders, which is owned by former world champion windsurfer Nik Baker – £20 hire for an hour, including wetsuit; £45 for a lesson, k66surfdivision.com. Or book a kite surfing lesson on the far east side of Worthing – from £65 for two hours; thekitesurfandsup.co
Lunch time
Walk down to the end of the pier to eat, where Tern, which opened in July, sits above Perch on the Pier. Tern offers Sunday brunch (smoked salmon crumpet, £10; kedgeree, £14) and, from Thursdays to Saturdays, five-course and seven-course tasting menus (£55 or £85) and seasonal dishes that looks like artwork, under chef Johnny Stanford. No children under 10, ternrestaurant.co.uk
Time to relax
Take a stroll around Cissbury Ring. Just north of the town, it is the highest point of the South Downs. On a clear day you can see the Isle of Wight. But, even in haze, look out for Red Admiral butterflies and grazing semi-wild horses from the New Forest (nationaltrust.org.uk/visit/sussex/cissbury-ring). If it’s raining, hide out at independent cinema The Dome, which opened in 1911, domecinema.co.uk
A final treat
Head to Boho Gelato where you might find toffee popcorn or Brighton blue cheese and pear among the changing ice cream flavours. Vegan and dairy-free options available, bohogelato.co.uk
Three things you might not know about Worthing…
Worthing is full of character (Photo: Daniela White Images/Moment RF/Getty)
1) Oscar Wilde wrote The Importance of Being Earnest while in Worthing, including in a cafe in the spot where the Crabshack now stands.
2) Anonymous street artist Horace has decorated the town with his stencil work: look out for seagulls, pigeons, the UK’s largest street mural on Portland Road and portraits of current and former residents, including musicians Billy Idol and Leo Sayer.
3) In 1926, a baby elephant was washed up on shore in Worthing after a ship sank off Deal in Kent. The elephant was part of a travelling circus: a monument stands in tribute to Dumbo outside the Bayside Apartments.
